Bookshelf

I have just a small bookshelf, I think it was $10 at Kmart. There is still a few inches to spare between the top of the bookshelf and the bed frame. That is not an issue, though. If you have a bookshelf already, I can cut the posts to fit your setup. The three shelf ones should fit fine. If you want the full on tall case, yuo better have a tall ceiling! Plus you'd need a ladder. At this height, I can just hop up from my desk chair. I guess you could high jump onto it, but my ceiling is too low for stunts like that. I've done it before though! Love the MTC room ceilings!

Clamp for Nalgene

I use Nalgenes for my water bottles. Like the wide mouth for ice cubes, and the no plastic taste. Don't like how the dishwasher cleans them, so I do them by hand and needed a place for them to dry out upside down. I made this out of some thick wire and just screwed it to the post. Nothing fancy, not pretty at all, but cheap! And it works. So if it's stupid, but it works, then how stupid is it?

View of the Bracing

Here you can see what I mean about bracing the posts so they don't wiggle. I mean, if you really push on them, the frame will move. The whole thing will move together. I guess if you bolted them to the floor, you would have a rock-solid bedframe. But who bolts their bed to the floor?!

Anyway, you can see they aren't winning awards for pretty, but you can always tuck in a sheet to hang low, or buy fabric to staple to the outsides of the posts. Well, guys probably don't care too much.

Suitcases? No problem.

Here is an example of how suitcases can fit under the frame. It is 31.5" from the carpet to the bottom of the bed rail. I can just about fit a minifridge under there (I can build yours tall enough to fit for sure)! I had to work with a short 7' ceiling though. I'll find the right fridge for me to fit under my bed soon enough.

Storage Space!

You never know how much stuff you have till you try to move it all! And then, you never know how little space you have till you try to cram it all in there! A common trick is to put your twin bed up on cinder blocks, to create some extra storage space. This is a good cheap method. Cinder blocks run about $1.50 these days at the Home Depot, or maybe you are good at scrounging, and have picked up 4 for free. Congratulations! These blocks are typically 8"x8"x16". So you can get about 16" + 5" from the bed frame posts. That's tall enough to fit the old style medium suitcases.

Pros:
1) Dirt cheap.
2) Storage for suitcases/books
3) Classic design, used for decades

Cons:
1) Unstable. They just have no anchor.
2) Limited height. And don't even try to stack them, it just gets worse.
3) 8"x8" post base is pretty wide, less space for you to use as storage.
4) Ugly, scratchy, plus bacteria could live in the crevices.

Here's a better option: I'll frame you posts out of 2x4's and they will be as tall as you like. They are steady, customizable, fairly cheap, and they offer far more storage capacity.

Pros:
1) As tall as you like. In Texas, I had 10' ceilings, so i made mine tall enough to almost walk under. I had a clothes rack on one side, and a filing cabinet on the other. You could put a desk underneath if you want. If you have lots of books, I can build the frame just tall enough so you can fit your bookshelves underneath. My sister had a little reading cubby hole under hers. I guess you could put your X-box there. Or just build forts. Put in your subwoofer maybe. About the only limit is that you want to be able to sit up in bed without hitting your head. I gave myself 36" from the top of the mattress to the ceiling, and I have never had a problem. I'm 6'2" for reference. I bet you could even have someone crash for a night under there if someone were visiting from out of town.
2) I build them stable. I have framed houses for 2 years, and the stuff I build is designed for strength and weight. I have never held a wresting match on top of one of my frames, but I would try it if I braced the fourth side. I brace three sides, and leave one long side open so it is easier to slide boxes and bins in and out. They are bolted to your steel bedframes with steel bolts.
3) Pine wood smells better than cinder blocks. That only lasts for a little bit right after they are made though.
4) Customizable. I can put in hooks for your backpack. I can secure a power strip to the side of a post, giving you more outlets. I can mount a stand for a reading light. They can be painted, if that's what you prefer. I don't build bookcases myself, or furniture. I can't compete with IKEA or WalMart there. But I can design the frame so it fits around what you want to stuff underneath.
5) Cheaper than renting a storage unit during the year. Fit your skis under there, hockey gear, all that stuff you don't need every single day but still want to get at it when you really need it.
6) I have done bunkbeds style as well, so if your shared room is a little too tiny, that might work. Not too well with a 7' ceiling. You figure about 15" height for a mattress and box springs. Times 2, for 30" just bed thickness, and take that from 84" for 54" of combined clearance. That's just 27" for you to sit up in. Kinda cramped. Even 8' ceilings just give 33" of clearance per person. Which is why real bunkbeds don't go with box springs. They just have that flat board, I don't know what to call it.

So if you think you could use some storage space, email me ( nocinderblocks@gmail.com ) and we can figure out how best to get you more space out of your room. Pricing is $25 for basic frame up to 4' tall for beds that have steel frames with holes already drilled, at least for now. It may go up depending on materials costs. I'm just doing this for Utah county right now, Provo, Orem. Any farther and I would charge for delivery based on distance (time and gasoline).

I'll try to get pictures up so you can get an idea of what I am creating.